Store an ATV in a cool, dry place and protect it from dust with a porous cover. Some basic maintenance should beperformed before storing an ATV to ensure optimum performance when it's ready to ride again. Procedures varydepending on the brand and model of an ATV, so it's always good to use a professional mechanic to prep an ATVfor storage.
When choosing to do the job yourself, keep the following advice in mind, and check the owner's manual for instructions specific to the ATV.Change the oil and filter. The new oil will not go bad sitting in the engine over the winter, but the old oil will eataway at your engine all winter. Be sure to run the engine for a few minutes after changing the oil to wash the newoil around inside. Running the engine a few minutes like this will not contaminate the new oil.
Drain the fuel tank, or at least turn off the fuel valve. Then run the engine to get the fuel out of the carburetor.Clean and lubricate all moving parts. Make sure all mud and dirt is cleaned out of these areas before oil is added.Check for loose hardware.Check brake levers, throttle lever, etc.Clean the air filter.ATVs in mud can be fun, but be sure to properly clean an ATV after each mudding session. Be sure to allow the
brakes to fully dry before riding.Check the spark plug, lights, switches, tires, etc.
Turn the wheels a little every month in order to prevent the tires from becoming degraded in one spot.
Cover the muffler outlets with plastic bags to prevent moisture from entering them.
Remove the battery and fully charge it once a month. Do not store the battery in an excessively cold or warm place.
Some basic maintenance should be performed before taking an ATV out in the cold and snowy winter. Procedures vary depending on the brand and model of an ATV, so it's always good to use a professional mechanic to prep an ATV for the winter.
Install a carburetor heater.
Switch to a synthetic oil, which will be unaffected by temperature and provide instant lubrication when starting the engine.
Make sure the battery is in good condition and the terminal connections are clean and tight.
Keep the fuel tank full to prevent moisture from condensing and causing passages to become ice-clogged.
Prevent corrosion by spraying down the suspension and brakes with a silicone water-dispersant before trailering an ATV. This will protect it from road salt.
Rinse the ATV after each trip and let it dry in a warm garage.
How to tune your suspension?
Preload Adjustment By turning the large nut at the bottom of the spring you can adjust the springs tension to suit your body weight. To properly make this adjustment you will need to .measure the "ride height sag"....
1) lift the rear wheels up off the ground.2) With the wheels off the ground, measure the distance from the top center of the rear axle to some point straightabove it on the ATVs frame. Write this dimension3) With all your riding gear on plop your butt on the seat with your feet on the pegs in your normal riding position.Then have somone measure the distance again in the same place as the first measurment. The difference betweenthe 2 measurments is called the "ride height sag".
4) Adjust your preload so that your "ride height sag" is about 30% of your total suspensiontravel. Example: If you have 9" of total travel you should have about 3" of ride height sag.
Use the same procedure EXCEPT your "ride height sag" should be about 20% of your total shock travel.
Adjusting the compression of the shock determines how fast the shock "compresses" together. This adjustment should be made according to the type of riding you plan on doing. The real trick here is set the suspension at the point where you use all the travel of the shock without bottoming out hard . With the setting too soft the suspension will feel "mushy" and you feel like it's "floating". With the setting too hard, You'll feel every little bump you hit because the shock isn't absorbing the bumps like it should. You can start by setting the compression at full soft. Ride the ATV for a short while .Then begin to ride over small bumps. Begin to adjust the shocks to absorb the bumps without feeling mushy. As you adjust the compression on the shocks, gradually begin moving up to bigger bumps and jumps. Every time you progress to larger jumps amd bumps readjust the shocks. Keep doing this untill you reach the point where you have reached YOUR personal limit of bumps or jumping safely while using all the travel in the shocks. (It's even ok if you allow the shocks to bottom out "slightly" as you land your largest jump)
The rebound adjustment is the setting that determines how fast the shock returns to its normal position. Setting the rebound at full soft allows the shock to return to full extension more quickly. At this setting the ATV may begin to experience a pogo effect. As the rider speeds over bumps, a shock that returns too quickly may rebound right back up and smack you right in the Butt,sending you right over the handle bars. Setting the rebound at full hard slows the return of the shock to it's normal position. At this setting as a rider speeds over bumps the shocks may not return to position fast enough causing the shocks "pack up". The more the shocks "pack up" The less travel they have untill they have a chance to return to their normal position. The best way to set the rebound on your shocks is to find a set of"whoops". A series of rolling hills two feet high and six feet apart. With the setting at full soft, ride through the whoops at a slow pace at first . Then each time you ride through the whoops go through a little faster adjusting the rebound untill you reach your fastest comfortable speed and the ATV is returning to its correct position without bucking you off.
It's not brain surgery
The MOST important thing to remember is...........ONLY MAKE ONE CHANGE AT A TIME !!!!! Doing onechange at a time will allow you to get a better feel for how your suspension is responding to the changes. Makingmore than one change at a time will just confuse you because you won't know which change made a desired orundesired effect. Tuning in your suspension to suit your needs will make you a much happier camper.
My Quad Pulls To The Left (or right ).....WHY?
1) Check your tire pressure. Atv tires are so soft and flexible 2 to 3 lbs difference between tires can do it. The reason why is air pressure causes the tire to expand. If you have 2 tires with different air pressures,they will be different diameters,causing the tire with more air to "Push" the atv. If it pulls to the left,check the right rear. If it pulls to the right,check the left rear.
2) Check the front end componants. You could have a worn or bent.....(a) Shocks (b) Tie rod ends (c) A arms (d) Ball joints (e) Steering column bushing
3) Check front end alignment. See your owners manual for specs.
One of the MOST neglected parts of your engine is your air filter. A dirty air filter can tremendously affect the performance of your ATV. A dirty filter can Keep your engine from starting. A dirty filter will allow dirt to pass through the filter possibly causing to your engine. ***PARTICULARLY THOSE 2 STROKES.*** For you guys that ride with an open air box.... Take a spare air filter with you when you go riding or when you go to the race track. Have it clean, oiled, and in a plastic bag ready to use. This way when have finished riding "The Dusty Trail", all you have to do is change the filter. This will enable you to clean the filter after you're done riding for the day. Clean your Air Filter open.
I Have A Hard Time Starting My Quad.....Why ?
THINGS TO CHECK
1) Air filter..is it clean? The motor has to inhale.
2) Exhaust baffles..are they clean? The motor has to exhale. (Maybe it sounds stupid but I saw a guy get mud in the exhaust -the bike wouldn't start)
3) Spark...getting any?
(a) Check plug.. is it dirty? Is the gap correct? Try a new one anyway.
(b) Check for broken, cracked, frayed or split wires.
(c) Faulty CDI unit.
(d) Faulty pulse generator.
(e) Faulty reverse switch.
(f) Faulty ignition switch.
4)Compression...is it low?
(a) Worn cylinder
(b) Worn piston & rings
(c) Blown gaskets.
(d) Valves....Could be stuck open, out of adjustment, damaged or an improperly adjusted decompression system.
(a) Getting any gas... Are the gas tank and carb breather tubes plugged? Check the float level. Plugged fuel filter?
(b) Improper carb adjustments.
(c) Check for dirt in the carb. (Dirt in the carb can get in the jets and the air passage ways causing a motor not to run, run rich, and run lean).
(d) Too much gas..flooding?.... Check float level ,Is gas leaking past float valve (could be faulty)
(e) Dirty air cleaner There are a few things that can make your quad not want to start.
How To Adjust A Carb?
1) IDLE....Set idle speed to proper r.p.m. by adjusting the IDLE SPEED SCREW. Next turn the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW to achieve highest speed and best response. Next reset IDLE SPEED SCREW to proper r.p.m.
2) OFF IDLE TO 1/4 THROTTLE.....The SLOW JET and SLOW AIR JET are the most effective in this range. When you want a richer mixture in this range use a larger SLOW JET or a smaller SLOW AIR JET. The opposite holds true for a leaner mixture.
3) 1/4 TO 3/4 THROTTLE.....The jet NEEDLE is the most effective in this range.Raising the NEEDLE (by lowering the clip) will richen the mixture. Lowering the NEEDLE will lean the mixture.
4) WIDE OPEN THROTTLE.....Changing the MAIN JET effects this range the most. Select the size which offers the best performance at wide open, then install a MAIN JET one size larger for engine durability. NOTE.. Please keep in mind when tuning any carburetor . When you jet a carb lean, you may increase your performance but you also increase your chance of over-heating the motor and seizing the piston. The cylinder relies on air (4 stroke) and water (2 stroke) to keep it cool, but the piston relies on the gasoline in the air fuel mixture to keep it cool.
How To Adjust A Exhaust?Repack the exhaust at the mfgs recommended intervals.This will keep the exhaust flowing and the bike running with optimal performance.As the packing begins to deteriorate the exhaust will get louder. We DON'T want that to happen.Repacking the exhaust is really quite simple.Purchase exhaust packing at your local bike shop,Start by disassembling the exhaust baffle.Remove the old packing. Measure the length of it and cut a new piece of packing to match.Wrap the new piece of packing around the baffle and reassemble.